Commentary: "Pigging out" in New York

06/13/2007 | NYTimes.com

The scene became both "ugly" and "beautiful" recently when Frank Bruni and five friends attacked 7 pounds of pork placed at the center of their Momofuku Ssam Bar table. Fat is back in some New York restaurants, where chefs including Ryan Skeen at Resto say lighter dishes just wouldn't ring true.

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