Cheese makers in Italy's northernmost mountains have long adhered to ancient methods of producing Parmesan cheese, and the Colline di Canossa creamery is one of the few artisanal operations remaining. The company "is a tiny five-person artisan supplier, and the cheese it makes is very versatile. It is so good you can eat it in hunks, as the Italians do, or as a dessert dish," says Kerry Newton, a dairy technologist at Marks & Spencer, which carries the cheese.

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