David Chan says he hated Chinese food as a child, but after eating a revelatory lemon chicken dish, he began to seek out Chinese food wherever he could find it. Over the years, he says, he has visited at least 6,297 restaurants, keeping meticulous notes in a spreadsheet and discovering some unusual twists on Chinese food staples. But despite visiting more than 300 Chinese food eateries a year, Chan says he still hasn't figured out how to use chopsticks.

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